Koman to Peja

84km 979m

A ferry good day

We had a quick 3km climb up and through a tunnel to the ferry port. Lake Koman has been made by a hydroelectric dam. There is no other way to get upstream other than by ferry, the steeply sided granite cliffs plunging into the water.

Exiting the tunnel brings you to a tiny strip of concrete wharf. This is important. In the organised chaos, cars and trucks were backed up inside the tunnel as the ferry hands directed traffic across tiny bits of tarmac, vehicles perilously close to falling/driving into the water as they sought their intended boat at the correct angle.

We got on first and watched the melee. It’s best described as a vehicular scrum. A policeman stood watch and blew a whistle ineffectually. Experienced ferry hands, bedecked in matching tracksuits, drew traffic through the eye of a needle. To say the boats were packed tightly is an understatement. We were rammed in. A cultural experience, but worth the price of the ticket just for watching the spectacle of boat-packing alone.

After that, the next 30kms were amazing, day watching the gates of heaven open up through an awesome gorge.

Alighting, we rode slick tarmac up to Bajram Currie, then left them Trans Dinarica route to head up and over the border into Kosovo, then heading north to Peja.

Idyllic cropfields surrounded us, the Accursed Mountains on our left shoulder as we made our way towards our destination.

We enjoyed a burek and then a wonderful meal in a fantastic town.

Butek!

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