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Final solo ride

I started in the rain and it kept coming and going all day. Within 5 minutes my feet were soaked and freezing from the road surface and they stayed that way all day.

Sometimes I rode on the highway, at others over the B roads and off-road tracks. The highway wasn’t much fun but at times it was the only way – trying to stick to the far side of the road yet avoiding all the broken glass, dirt build ups and detritus whilst trucks and buses whistled close by. Back lights on full beam for me as a precaution.

I had to climb over a few hills before I hit a series of satellite towns. The Balkan tendency to drop litter absolutely anywhere appears to have reached its heights in Bulgaria. I mean litter in its widest sense. Anything you can contain in a plastic bag to large bulky items, even half a car or something? Just luzz it wherever you want. The smell becomes pervasive.

These towns were also handicapped by monstrous Soviet era tower blocks that have literally never been repaired or updated. Let’s say it was more sociologically than aesthetically interesting. I took two photos today, a record low.

On the plus side, I have managed to fashion a “Snarl Stopper.” Or maybe “Growl Guard.”Being chased by wild dogs is a Balkan rite of passage. It happens several times a day to me now. You need something to deter them, which can be deployed both quickly and one handed.

I have a tent pole like item that I can keep in my top tube bag and quickly flick out to look like a big stick. Accompanied by some alpha shouting it works a treat.

Finally reaching Sofia I stopped in a bike shop to check a couple of things and eventually repaired to my ring road hotel where I could finally peel off my wet shoes.

I’m writing this in the hotel “restaurant” where about 90% of people are smoking and someone just opened the door for a stray (quite possibly diseased?) dog. Different strokes… literally.

Tomorrow is a rest day in Sofia, with a special guest!