Category: Blog

Greece the wheels

Starting out, the weather forecast had been apocalyptic so we tried to get as much done as early as possible in order to shorten our ride time in the rain.

As usual coming out of town there was the highway to contend with, a dual carriageway with heavy traffic.

Respite came as we turned off onto the “old road” which would eventually take us up to and over the border. The old roads were the ones first trod on foot that then became tarmacked, and eventually superceded by a newly built highway.

It’s this last stage, and the corresponding lack of traffic on the old road, that makes them attractive for us.

We stopped for coffee at a tiny village, visitors from outer space. At the next place we found a bakery selling banitza so fresh and hot that the whole town was queuing for them. Always eat where the locals are.

By this stage we’d dodged the rain. The views were immense over the Rhodope mountain range, autumn colours daubed on the steep slopes. As we turned one corner we could see the weather hitting.

But we were heading south and the wind was raking the rain north. By some miracle our timing and progress allowed us to miss it.

At the top we went through to Greece, my fifteenth country.

Standing at the top and surveying the plains of Thrace I realised this would be my last mountain pass. That feeling of seeing your hard work spread out before you, and the knowledge of a monumental downhill to come is special. I’ll miss it.

Taking the old road down was thrilling. Speeding through hairpins, flicking your head up from the road to momentarily take in the awesome views whilst hurtling down is special.

We took the traditional bench lunch just before our destination and with unbelievable timing got to the hotel as the heavens opened.

We may not be so lucky tomorrow, but I’ll take it for today.