Author: bengarbutt

Fire on the Rhine

Some ups and downs today, literally and metaphorically.

The day started wonderfully. My host in Cologne, Frank, plied me with oatmeal and coffee – perfect cycling fuel. The bells on the famous cathedral struck out as I departed.

The morning ride took in sleepy Bonn, once the capital of the old West Germany, and thereafter consisted of miles of beautiful track along the Rhine, interspersed with villages with people enjoying exercise and ice creams on the weekend.

I took my time getting to Koblenz, it was up to 30 degrees by now so I trundled along.

The two campsites on the way in were full. Uh oh.

As I reached town, streets were closed and a massive carnival being set up. Trouble.

I thought I’d try tourist information for campsite tips. They didn’t even have the grace to laugh at me, genuinely looking at me like I might be insane. “It’s the Fire on the Rhine festival tonight. The whole town is fully booked.”

It was 5pm. I was boiling, dehydrated, tired, hungry. One last campsite wasn’t answering their phone though so I went the 10km there only to find a queue of disappointed cyclists all looking at their phones. They planned to go 20km more in the hope (but not the guarantee) that the next site had spaces, but I was beat.

I sat and searched for any rooms nearby. €300 for any hotel close by. €90 for one 16km away. How hard could it be? Swallow the hit: book it.

Turns out it’s up a massive, long, steep hill. But I made it. Might look to book a campsite up tomorrow hey?