Day 29 – 130km 1825m – Knin to Rumboci

Bosnian backroads

Rain was forecast. Thankfully the type that comes in bands, rather than the persistent all day stuff. So I set off early, knowing that the monster climb into Bosnia would be interrupted. As I hit the foot of the mountain pass (2hrs solid uphill according to GPS) it became clear that I would do well to find cover.

But as the first band hit I found a farmers barn to see it out, complete with a tractor to provide a seat. Then an hour later, at the exit border from Croatia I stayed under the petrol station like canopy for an hour as the second, more violent band passed. The guards tolerated me, unlike the cheery Bosnian guard who welcomed me to his country with a smile and a thumbs up.

Reaching the top was incredible. As I descended I encountered a thick wall of cloud below me, covering the road. It was so thick you could almost grab it. But now all my good work to remain dry came to nought. The cloud was the rain, and I was in it. I could only laugh.

Candidate for moment of the day arrived as in a microsecond, and travelling at great speed down the mountain pass, I punched out of the wall of cloud and into bright sunshine. BANG! I swear that if I could have looked behind me there would have been cartoonish vapour trails whipped from the cloud-wall.

Following a quick stop in Livno (ATM, bakery – no burek!) I tackled another monster climb (only an hour this time!) into Tomislavgrad for a pizza, where I met my first other cycle tourist on the trail. We exchanged stories and headed off in different directions.

Now there was just one more mountain before me and my destination. More climbing before a valedictory sweeping descent into Rumboci.

From high on the pass, I could see the small town. The lake beside which the town sits is in a massive natural amphitheatre, totally surrounded on all sides by mountains – the only way out for me tomorrow morning!